Shape No. 09 · Asscher Diamond
Asscher Cut Diamond
Art Deco Geometry at Its Purest
The Asscher cut is the only diamond shape in this guide that carries a family name — and the Asscher family of Amsterdam has been cutting diamonds at the highest level since 1854. Their 1902 invention is a square step-cut diamond of remarkable depth and intensity: a shape that uses its concentric octagonal outlines to produce a hall of mirrors effect more hypnotic than any other cut, drawing the eye endlessly inward through layers of reflected geometry. It is the definitive Art Deco diamond — precise, architectural, and utterly without compromise.
"Looking into an Asscher cut is not like looking at a diamond — it is like looking through one. The concentric octagonal reflections draw the eye deeper and deeper into a geometry that seems to have no end."
History
Origin & History of the Asscher Cut
The Asscher cut bears its creator's name more legitimately than perhaps any other diamond shape — because the Asscher family did not merely invent a cut, they built an institution around it. The I.J. Asscher Diamond Company was founded in Amsterdam in 1854 by Joseph Isaac Asscher and grew, under his descendants, into one of the most prestigious diamond firms in the world. The company's credentials included cutting the Cullinan Diamond — at 3,106 carats the largest gem-quality diamond ever found — in 1908. It was within this tradition of exceptional craftsmanship that Joseph Asscher, Joseph Isaac's grandson, developed the Asscher cut and patented it in 1902.
Asscher's design was a square step-cut diamond with deeply trimmed corners — producing an octagonal outline — a very high crown, a small table, and a deep pavilion. These proportions were deliberately chosen to maximize the step-cut's hall of mirrors effect: the high crown creates additional step facet rows above the girdle, the small table concentrates the interior reflections, and the deep pavilion allows the light to bounce repeatedly between the crown and pavilion facets before returning to the viewer's eye. The result, in a well-cut Asscher, is a depth of optical illusion that no other shape quite replicates — looking into an Asscher cut diamond feels like looking through a series of concentric octagons receding into infinity.
The Asscher patent expired in the 1940s, and the shape fell somewhat from mainstream favor through the mid-twentieth century — a victim partly of the post-war preference for brilliant-cut shapes and partly of the commercial challenges facing European diamond houses during and after the Second World War. The I.J. Asscher Diamond Company itself survived but was significantly diminished.
The revival came in two waves. The first was the broader Art Deco and vintage jewelry renaissance of the 1980s and 1990s, which brought renewed appreciation for the Asscher cut's architectural beauty. The second, more specific, was the 2001 introduction of the Royal Asscher Cut — a new, proprietary cut developed by Edward Asscher that expanded the facet count from 58 to 74, deepened the crown, and refined the proportions to produce an even more intense hall of mirrors effect. The Royal Asscher Cut is a trademarked design available exclusively through authorised dealers, and it represents the definitive modern expression of the shape.
1854
Joseph Isaac Asscher founds the I.J. Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam, establishing one of the most prestigious diamond cutting houses in history.
1902
Joseph Asscher develops and patents the Asscher cut — a square step-cut diamond with deeply trimmed corners, high crown, and deep pavilion designed to maximize the hall of mirrors optical effect.
1908
The Asscher company cuts the Cullinan Diamond — the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found — cementing the firm's reputation as the foremost diamond cutters in the world.
1940s
The original Asscher patent expires. The shape enters a period of reduced mainstream popularity as brilliant cuts dominate the postwar market.
2001
Edward Asscher introduces the Royal Asscher Cut — a 74-facet refinement of the original design with a higher crown and more precisely specified proportions, trademarked and available exclusively through authorized retailers.
2000s - Present
The Art Deco jewelry revival and the rising popularity of step-cut diamonds brings the Asscher cut firmly back into the mainstream. Several high-profile celebrity engagement rings — including Pippa Middleton's — feature Asscher cuts, driving sustained demand.
Anatomy
The Anatomy of the Asscher Cut
The Asscher cut's defining architectural feature is its series of concentric octagonal outlines — visible face-up as a sequence of receding geometric frames converging toward the culet. Every structural element of this cut is calibrated to deepen and intensify this effect.
Standard vs. Royal Asscher
The Asscher Cut vs. The Royal Asscher Cut
The standard Asscher cut — produced by cutters worldwide following the expiry of the original 1902 patent — typically has 58 facets and proportions that vary somewhat between manufacturers. The Royal Asscher Cut is a specific, trademarked design introduced in 2001 by the Asscher family company, featuring 74 facets, a higher crown with additional step rows, an even smaller table, and more precisely specified proportions. The Royal Asscher produces a more intense, more layered hall of mirrors effect than a standard Asscher — the additional facets create more reflective surfaces and deepen the concentric octagonal illusion. Royal Asscher Cut diamonds are certified and laser-inscribed by the Royal Asscher company and carry a premium over standard Asscher cuts of comparable grade. Both are beautiful; the difference is one of intensity and provenance.
The Asscher's table is deliberately kept small — proportionally smaller than any other step-cut shape — to concentrate the hall of mirrors effect and reduce the "window" transparency that would otherwise look directly through to the culet. A smaller table creates more reflective real estate in the crown facets.
The Asscher's crown is significantly taller than an emerald cut's — creating additional step rows between the table and girdle. These extra rows are the engine of the deeper, more layered optical effect. The Royal Asscher's crown is even higher than the standard Asscher, which is a primary source of its visual advantage.
The deep chamfered corners that produce the octagonal outline. These corners are more pronounced in the Asscher than in the emerald cut — the degree of chamfering is more aggressive, producing a silhouette that reads more clearly as an octagon rather than a rectangle. This is the shape's most visually distinctive feature from above.
Viewed face-up, the Asscher shows a series of concentric octagonal rings — the outlines of each successive step-cut facet row, reflected through the table. In a well-cut Asscher, these rings appear to recede inward like a hypnotic tunnel. This is the shape's defining visual experience and the quality most worth evaluating before purchasing.
The Asscher typically carries more depth than the emerald cut — total depth percentages of 60–68% are common. This depth is a structural feature of the design, not a flaw: it is what gives the pavilion enough geometry to create the bouncing reflections that define the step-cut hall of mirrors effect. But it does mean the Asscher appears smaller face-up relative to its carat weight than many other shapes.
The Asscher typically has a small flat culet facet rather than a sharp point. This tiny facet at the pavilion base is sometimes visible as a small dot at the canter of the concentric octagonal reflections when viewed face-up — a characteristic that some buyers find charming and others wish to minimize. A very small or absent culet is preferable for those who find it distracting.
Buying Guide
Expert Advice for Buying an Asscher Cut Diamond
Clarity Is Even More Critical Here Than in the Emerald Cut
The Asscher cut's small table and high crown mean that inclusions are not quite as directly visible face-up as in an emerald cut — but the deep step-cut architecture means any inclusion that is visible will appear in multiple reflections simultaneously, amplifying its apparent presence. For an Asscher cut, VS2 should be considered the absolute minimum clarity grade, and VS1 is strongly preferred. The hall of mirrors effect that makes this shape extraordinary also means that any optical interruption — a cloud, a crystal, a feather — will appear as a repeated disruption in the pattern. There is no workaround for this; only genuine clarity quality delivers the Asscher's full visual promise.
Evaluate the Concentric Octagonal Pattern Face-Up
When assessing an Asscher cut diamond, the most important single evaluation is the clarity and definition of the concentric octagonal reflections visible face-up. In a well-cut Asscher, you should see a series of clearly defined octagonal rings, each one slightly smaller than the last, converging toward a small culet point at the canter — like looking down a perfectly square tunnel. In a poorly cut Asscher, this pattern will be muddy, asymmetric, or interrupted. No grading certificate captures this quality — it must be seen directly. At Michael Gabriels, we specifically describe and rate the hall of mirrors character of every Asscher in our inventory.
Decide Between Standard and Royal Asscher Intentionally
The choice between a standard Asscher cut and a Royal Asscher Cut is a genuine aesthetic decision, not merely a prestige one. The Royal Asscher's additional facets and higher crown produce a measurably more intense optical experience — the concentric octagonal pattern has more layers and greater depth. However, the Royal Asscher also carries a premium price and is available only through authorized retailers. For buyers who appreciate maximum hall of mirrors intensity and are attracted to the provenance of the originating family firm, the Royal Asscher is worth the premium. For buyers whose priority is value within the Asscher shape category, a well-cut standard Asscher can be extraordinarily beautiful at a lower price point.
Lean on Art Deco Settings to Honour the Shape's Heritage
The Asscher cut was born in the early twentieth century and reached its greatest cultural moment during the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s. Setting an Asscher in a period-appropriate or Art Deco–inspired mounting — geometric milgrain, filigree, engraved side detail, or a stepped bezel — honors this heritage and creates a cohesive aesthetic that many buyers find more satisfying than a modern solitaire with an antique-feeling center stone. That said, the Asscher is versatile: in a simple platinum solitaire, its geometric precision and deep internal reflections speak for themselves without period styling. Both approaches are valid; the choice comes down to whether you want the setting to echo the stone's history or contrast with it.
Continue Exploring
Shapes Related to the Asscher Cut
The Asscher's closest sibling — same step-cut faceting, same trimmed corners, same clarity and color requirements. The fundamental difference is shape: the emerald is rectangular, the Asscher is square. Both produce the hall of mirrors effect; the Asscher's version is deeper and more intense due to its greater depth and higher crown.
The Asscher's brilliant-cut square counterpart — similar compact proportions and vintage sensibility, but with brilliant faceting that produces sparkle rather than step reflections. Compare these two shapes when choosing between geometric drama and vintage warmth in a square diamond.
Another square diamond option — but with sharp corners and brilliant faceting in place of the Asscher's trimmed corners and step cuts. The princess is modern and architectural in a different way; the Asscher is architectural with depth and history. View both side by side before deciding on your square diamond.
Ready to Begin?
Find Your Perfect Asscher Cut Diamond
Browse Michael Gabriels' Asscher cut selection — including both standard and Royal Asscher Cut diamonds, each independently certified, personally evaluated for concentric octagonal pattern quality, and reviewed for clarity character by our gemologists.
Common Questions
Diamond Shape FAQ
Shape refers to the outline of the diamond as viewed from above — round, oval, pear, and so on. Cut refers to the quality of the craftsmanship: how well the diamond's facets are angled, polished, and proportioned. A round diamond with an Excellent cut grade has been faceted to precise ideal proportions. A round diamond with a Poor cut grade has the same shape but far inferior light performance. Both shape and cut matter; shape determines the diamond's silhouette, cut determines how beautifully it performs within that silhouette.
Elongated shapes — particularly the marquise, oval, and pear — tend to have the largest face-up appearance relative to their carat weight, because their mass is spread across a longer surface area. The emerald cut also reads as large due to its open table. The round brilliant, by contrast, concentrates mass into a compact depth, so a 1.00ct round will measure approximately 6.5mm across, while a 1.00ct oval may measure 8.0 x 5.5mm — appearing visibly larger in many settings.
The round brilliant is the most scientifically optimised shape for light return — its 58 facets are positioned according to precise mathematical principles that maximise brilliance, fire, and scintillation simultaneously. However, "best" is subjective. A well-cut oval, cushion, or radiant can be extraordinarily beautiful, and many buyers prefer the distinctiveness of a fancy shape over the conventional round. The most important factor is ensuring the cut quality is excellent, regardless of the shape you choose.
Round brilliant diamonds have historically held their resale value better than fancy shapes, largely because they represent the largest segment of market demand. Fancy shapes — ovals, pears, cushions — can fluctuate more in resale value depending on current trends. That said, diamonds are generally not considered liquid investment assets, and the intrinsic beauty and personal meaning of your chosen shape should take precedence over resale considerations in most purchasing decisions.
For round brilliants, the GIA and AGS provide cut grades (Excellent/Ideal) that reflect overall proportion quality. For fancy shapes, no equivalent standardized cut grade currently exists — which means buyers must evaluate proportions themselves. At Michael Gabriels, each of our individual shape guides includes a detailed proportions section with the specific measurements you should look for, and our gemologists are available to review any stone you are considering.
