Shape No. 05 · Pear Brilliant Cut
Pear Shaped Diamond
Delicacy in Motion
The pear shaped diamond — also known as the teardrop cut — is one of the most visually distinctive shapes in all of fine jewelry. A hybrid of the round brilliant and the marquise, it combines one rounded end with a single tapered point at the opposite tip. The result is a shape of considerable character: asymmetrical in its silhouette, profoundly elongating on the finger, and brilliant in its light performance. The pear rewards buyers who seek individuality without surrendering sparkle.
"The pear is one of the oldest recognizable diamond shapes in history — its teardrop silhouette has been worn by queens, courtesans, and connoisseurs for more than five hundred years."
History
Origin & History of the Pear Shape
The pear shaped has one of the most ancient lineages of any diamond shapes in the modern catalogue. Its origins trace to the mid-fifteenth century, to the workshops of Flemish diamond cutter Lodewyk van Bercken — a figure who occupies a foundational place in the history of diamond cutting itself. Van Bercken is credited with several critical innovations in diamond cutting technique, including the development of the scaif (a polishing wheel infused with a mixture of olive oil and diamond dust) and the discovery that diamonds could only be effectively polished along their natural crystallographic grain directions. These innovations made true faceting possible, and the pear was among the first shapes he produced using these new methods.
Van Bercken's pear cuts bore little resemblance to the modern pear brilliant — they were rougher, less symmetrical, and with far fewer facets. But the essential form was there: a teardrop silhouette, tapering to a point at one end and rounding out at the other. Over the following centuries, the pear shape evolved alongside all of diamond cutting, acquiring more facets and greater precision as tools and techniques improved.
In the modern era, the pear brilliant uses the same 58-facet architecture as the round brilliant, adapted for its teardrop outline. It combines the facet pattern of the round at its broad, rounded end with the tapering structure of the marquise at its point. This hybrid nature is one of the pear's most interesting technical characteristics — it requires exceptional skill to balance the optical properties across two fundamentally different geometric zones in a single stone.
The pear has been worn by some of the most celebrated figures in jewelry history. The Taylor-Burton Diamond — a 69.42-carat pear shaped diamond purchased by Richard Burton for Elizabeth Taylor in 1969 — became one of the most famous individual diamonds of the twentieth century, cementing the pear's association with romance, drama, and exceptional scale. More recently, pear shapes have appeared on the fingers of celebrities including Ariana Grande, Cardi B, and Sophie Turner, contributing to a sustained revival of the shape in the contemporary bridal market.
1458
Lodewyk van Bercken creates some of the earliest documented pear shaped diamonds using his newly developed polishing techniques in Bruges, Belgium.
1500s - 1700s
The pear shape is favored in royal and aristocratic jewelry across Europe. Its elongated, directional silhouette makes it particularly popular for pendants and drop earrings worn by figures of the French, English, and Spanish courts.
1969
Richard Burton purchases the 69.42-carat Taylor-Burton Diamond — a pear shaped stone — for Elizabeth Taylor at a Sotheby's auction, generating worldwide media coverage and reinforcing the pear's romantic associations.
2000s
Celebrity engagement rings bring the pear back into mainstream bridal consciousness. Its finger-elongating properties and distinctive silhouette appeal strongly to buyers seeking an alternative to the round brilliant.
2020s
The pear sustains strong market momentum as a top-five engagement ring shape globally, worn with the point facing toward or away from the hand depending on personal preference.
Anatomy
The Anatomy of the Pear Diamond
The pear is anatomically the most asymmetric of all the brilliant-cut shapes — one end is rounded like a round brilliant, the other terminates in a sharp point like a marquise. Each zone of the stone presents its own optical challenges and opportunities, making proper faceting particularly demanding in this shape.
Important Optical Consideration
The Bow-Tie Effect in Pear Diamonds
Like the oval and marquise, pear shaped diamonds are susceptible to the bow-tie effect — a dark, bowtie-shaped shadow visible across the centre of the stone when viewed face-up. This occurs because light entering through the broad, rounded portion of the stone is not reflected back toward the viewer through the central facets. A slight bow-tie is normal and can add depth; a severe bow-tie dominates the centre of the stone and is a meaningful optical flaw. Additionally, the pointed tip of a pear diamond is inherently vulnerable to chipping — proper prong placement over the tip is non-negotiable. There is no certificate grade for bow-tie severity; every pear must be evaluated by eye.
The broad, circular end of the pear — faceted similarly to the round end of an oval diamond. This is the widest point of the stone and contributes most of the brilliance. The symmetry of the round end is a critical quality marker: lobes should be perfectly matched in curvature.
The widest section of the pear, typically at the transition from the rounded end toward the taper. The belly's curvature affects the stone's overall proportions — too narrow a belly and the stone reads as a thin, angular shape; too wide and it loses the delicate teardrop character.
The curved sections transitioning from the round end toward the taper of the point. Well-cut shoulders are smoothly curved and symmetrical. Flat or angular shoulders — sometimes called "high shoulders" or "winged shoulders" — are a proportion flaw that distorts the classical teardrop silhouette.
The sharp tapered end of the pear. This is the most structurally vulnerable area of the stone — a pointed diamond tip has no protective curve and is susceptible to chipping from impact. A V-prong or bezel covering the tip is strongly recommended for everyday wear.
The ratio of the stone's length (point to round end) to its width at the widest point. A ratio of 1.45–1.75 produces the classic pear silhouette. Below 1.40, the stone reads as a wide, almost-round shape; above 1.80, it becomes very long and narrow with a heightened bow-tie tendency.
Symmetry is more visually critical in the pear than in almost any other shape. The two "wings" — the curves on either side of the stone — must be mirror images. A misaligned or offset tip, or asymmetric lobes at the round end, are immediately apparent to the eye and significantly detract from the stone's beauty.
Buying Guide
Expert Advice for Buying a Pear Diamond
In pear shaped diamonds, symmetry is arguably the single most important quality criterion — more immediately impactful on the eye than minor differences in colour or clarity grade. The two wings of the pear must curve identically, the belly must sit at the true midpoint, and the tip must align exactly with the centre of the round end. Even a small deviation — a slightly off-centre tip, a wing that is flatter on one side — creates a visual lopsidedness that is very difficult to ignore once noticed. Always request GIA Excellent or Very Good symmetry, and view the stone face-up to confirm before purchasing.
Protect the Point with a V-Prong
The pointed tip of a pear shaped diamond is its most vulnerable structural point. A sharp diamond tip has no curved edge to distribute impact — a single hard knock against a surface can cause the tip to chip or fracture. A V-prong — a single angled prong that cradles the tip from both sides — provides the most complete protection while remaining visually unobtrusive. Avoid settings where the tip is exposed or held only by a rounded prong that does not fully cover the point. This is not an aesthetic consideration alone; it is a durability one.
Decide Orientation Before Choosing a Setting
A pear shaped diamond can be worn in two orientations: point up (toward the fingernail) or point down (toward the hand). Point up is the traditional and more common orientation, and it maximizes the elongating effect on the finger. Point down creates a different, somewhat more unusual effect — the rounded end toward the nail — and has become a distinctive choice that certain buyers find more interesting. The orientation affects not just aesthetics but setting design, since the prong positions must accommodate whichever end is featured prominently. Decide your preferred orientation before commissioning or selecting a setting.
The shoulder area — the transitional curves between the rounded end and the tapering sides — is where many otherwise attractive pear shapes reveal hidden proportion flaws. "High shoulders" are overly flat or angular transitions that break the smooth teardrop flow; "winged shoulders" bow outward too aggressively and give the stone an awkward appearance that no setting can fully resolve. These flaws are rarely mentioned in grading reports but are clearly visible when viewing the stone face-up. At Michael Gabriels, our gemologists specifically evaluate shoulder shape and flow for every pear in our inventory.
Continue Exploring
Shapes Related to the Pear Diamond
The pear's closest sibling — same brilliant-cut faceting, similar elongating properties, and a shared bow-tie characteristic. The oval is symmetrical at both ends, making it a more versatile wearable shape for those who love the pear's length but want a more balanced silhouette.
The pear with two pointed ends instead of one — the marquise pushes the elongating silhouette to its absolute extreme. Both shapes share the bow-tie characteristic and the requirement for protected tips. The marquise is the pear's most dramatic cousin.
The pear uses the round brilliant's 58-facet structure as its architectural foundation. If you are drawn to the pear's sparkle character but want a shape that requires less attention to symmetry and orientation, the round brilliant is the natural benchmark comparison.
Ready to Begin?
Find Your Perfect Pear Diamond
Browse Michael Gabriels' selection of pear shaped diamonds — each independently certified by the GIA, evaluated for symmetry and shoulder profile, and reviewed for bow-tie character by our gemologists.
Common Questions
Diamond Shape FAQ
Shape refers to the outline of the diamond as viewed from above — round, oval, pear, and so on. Cut refers to the quality of the craftsmanship: how well the diamond's facets are angled, polished, and proportioned. A round diamond with an Excellent cut grade has been faceted to precise ideal proportions. A round diamond with a Poor cut grade has the same shape but far inferior light performance. Both shape and cut matter; shape determines the diamond's silhouette, cut determines how beautifully it performs within that silhouette.
Elongated shapes — particularly the marquise, oval, and pear — tend to have the largest face-up appearance relative to their carat weight, because their mass is spread across a longer surface area. The emerald cut also reads as large due to its open table. The round brilliant, by contrast, concentrates mass into a compact depth, so a 1.00ct round will measure approximately 6.5mm across, while a 1.00ct oval may measure 8.0 x 5.5mm — appearing visibly larger in many settings.
The round brilliant is the most scientifically optimised shape for light return — its 58 facets are positioned according to precise mathematical principles that maximise brilliance, fire, and scintillation simultaneously. However, "best" is subjective. A well-cut oval, cushion, or radiant can be extraordinarily beautiful, and many buyers prefer the distinctiveness of a fancy shape over the conventional round. The most important factor is ensuring the cut quality is excellent, regardless of the shape you choose.
Round brilliant diamonds have historically held their resale value better than fancy shapes, largely because they represent the largest segment of market demand. Fancy shapes — ovals, pears, cushions — can fluctuate more in resale value depending on current trends. That said, diamonds are generally not considered liquid investment assets, and the intrinsic beauty and personal meaning of your chosen shape should take precedence over resale considerations in most purchasing decisions.
For round brilliants, the GIA and AGS provide cut grades (Excellent/Ideal) that reflect overall proportion quality. For fancy shapes, no equivalent standardized cut grade currently exists — which means buyers must evaluate proportions themselves. At Michael Gabriels, each of our individual shape guides includes a detailed proportions section with the specific measurements you should look for, and our gemologists are available to review any stone you are considering.
