Shape No. 08 · Princess Brilliant Cut
Princess Cut Diamond
Modern Geometry, Maximum Sparkle
The princess cut is the world's second most popular diamond shape — and it earned that status by resolving a tension that had defined square diamond cutting for decades: how to achieve round-brilliant levels of sparkle within a square outline without sacrificing geometric precision. Its answer was a facet pattern of exceptional ingenuity — inverted pyramidal pavilion facets that produce a distinctive, cross-patterned light display with an intensity that no other square shape approaches.
"The princess cut resolved the longest-standing compromise in fancy diamond cutting: proving that a perfectly square diamond could produce brilliance comparable to a round, without sacrificing a single degree of geometric precision."
History
Origin & History of the Princess Cut
The princess cut is a remarkably young shape for one that holds the second most popular position in the global diamond market. Its development can be traced to the late 1970s and early 1980s — a period of significant experimentation in fancy diamond cutting — with the credit for its definitive modern form going to Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, who refined and introduced the shape in 1980. Their innovation built on earlier experimental square cuts, most notably the "profile cut" developed by Arpad Nagy in 1961 and the "barion cut" created by Basil Watermeyer in 1971, but brought a new facet geometry that dramatically improved the shape's optical performance.
The name "princess cut" is of uncertain origin — it was not conferred by any single designer or institution, and its adoption appears to have been organic, driven by jewellers and retailers who found the regal name resonated with buyers. What is clear is that by the late 1980s and 1990s, the princess cut had established itself as the dominant alternative to the round brilliant for buyers who wanted a square shape with genuine sparkle. Its rise corresponded with a broader cultural moment in jewelry — the 1980s preference for bold, architectural forms in fashion and luxury goods — and it never lost the market position it built during that era.
The princess cut's technical achievement lies in its pavilion. Where the round brilliant uses a pavilion of eight main facets arranged around a central culet, the princess cut uses an inverted pyramid structure — a series of chevron-shaped facets that converge toward a pointed culet. This arrangement reflects light upward through the table in a distinctive four-rayed star pattern visible in well-cut princess diamonds, creating a scintillation effect that is more geometric and organized than the random sparkle of some other brilliant diamond shapes.
Today the princess cut is produced in two main sub-variants, distinguished by the number of chevron facet rows in the pavilion: two-row and three-row. Two-row pavilions produce a larger, chunkier sparkle pattern with more visible contrast; three-row pavilions produce finer, more uniform scintillation. The difference is similar in character to the cushion brilliant versus cushion modified brilliant distinction, and is worth understanding before purchasing.
1961
Arpad Nagy develops the "profile cut" — an early square brilliant-cut experiment that establishes the concept of inverted pyramid pavilion faceting, laying groundwork for the princess cut.
1971
Basil Watermeyer introduces the "barion cut," a further refinement of square brilliant-cut faceting that introduces additional facet rows for improved light performance.
1980
Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz refine and introduce the definitive modern princess cut — a square brilliant-cut diamond with sharp 90-degree corners and an inverted pyramid pavilion. The shape quickly gains commercial traction.
1990s
The princess cut rises to become the second most popular diamond shape globally, driven by its clean geometry and round-brilliant-level sparkle. It dominates the square engagement ring market and becomes a default choice for buyers seeking an alternative to the round.
2000s - Present
The princess holds its market position despite competition from the cushion and radiant cuts. Its strict square geometry and sharp corners give it a distinctive modern aesthetic that continues to attract buyers who prefer architectural precision over organic softness.
Anatomy
The Anatomy of the Princess Cut
The princess cut's defining structural feature is its perfectly square outline with sharp, unclipped 90-degree corners — a geometry that creates the shape's crisp, modern aesthetic but also its primary durability vulnerability. The pavilion's inverted pyramid facet structure is the engine of its distinctive sparkle.
Primary Durability Concern
The Sharp Corner Vulnerability
The princess cut's four 90-degree corners are its most significant structural weakness. A sharp corner concentrates mechanical stress at a single point — exactly the geometry most prone to chipping on impact. This is not a hypothetical concern: corner chipping is the most common physical damage reported in princess cut diamonds, and it typically occurs from everyday impacts such as catching a ring on a hard surface or knocking the hand against a countertop. The industry standard solution is to place a dedicated prong at each corner — four corner prongs are the minimum. A bezel setting offers complete perimeter protection but reduces light entry from the sides. Never leave a princess cut corner unprotected in a setting, regardless of how aesthetically minimal the design may be.
The four 90-degree corners that define the princess cut's strict geometric outline. These are the shape's most recognizable feature and its primary durability vulnerability. All four must be protected by prongs or a bezel in any setting intended for daily wear.
The large square flat facet on the crown. Princess cut tables typically run 65–75% of the stone's width — proportionally larger than most other brilliant cuts. This contributes to the shape's face-up size advantage but also means inclusions near the table are more visible than in shapes with smaller tables.
The upper section above the girdle, with bezel facets running along each side. Princess crown heights are typically lower than rounds — this is a factor in the shape's crisp, flat appearance when viewed from the side, and affects the balance between fire and brilliance.
The princess cut's most distinctive internal feature — V-shaped chevron facets on the pavilion that form an inverted pyramid converging toward the culet. Available in two-row and three-row configurations, these facets produce the shape's characteristic cross-pattern or star sparkle when viewed face-up.
The perimeter edge following the square outline. Princess girdle thickness must be sufficient to provide structural support, especially at the corners. An extremely thin girdle at the corners significantly increases chipping risk. Medium girdle thickness at the corners is the recommended minimum for safety.
For a square princess, the ideal ratio is 1.00–1.05. Ratios above 1.10 produce a noticeably rectangular outline — sometimes called a "rectangular princess." This is a matter of preference but should be deliberate: if you want a true square, specify L/W ratio along with other specifications when searching.
Buying Guide
Expert Advice for Buying a Princess Cut Diamond
Check Depth Percentage Carefully
The princess cut carries more of its carat weight in depth than most other shapes — particularly because of its inverted pyramid pavilion structure, which converges to a point rather than resting on a flat culet. Princess cuts with total depth percentages above 75% will look noticeably smaller face-up than their weight suggests. When comparing princess cuts of similar carat weights, always request the millimeter measurements and compare face-up footprints directly. A princess at 68% depth will appear considerably larger and brighter than one at 76%, even at identical carat weights. The ideal depth range of 64–75% is a wide bracket — aim for the lower end for the best face-up appearance.
Ensure All Four Corners Are Covered in the Setting
The single most important setting decision for a princess cut diamond is corner protection. Every one of the four 90-degree corners must be covered by a dedicated prong — four-prong settings with prongs positioned at each corner are the standard. Some buyers prefer six-prong settings for additional security; others choose a bezel or half-bezel. Whatever setting you choose, inspect the finished ring carefully to confirm that all four corners are securely held and that no corner tip protrudes beyond the prong coverage. If you are setting a princess cut in a channel or bezel, ensure the channel walls fully reach and protect the corners on both sides.
In the princess cut, colour has a tendency to concentrate in the four corners — the thinnest areas of the stone, where mass is minimal and body color can appear more saturated. In a white metal setting, a princess at H color may appear visibly warmer at the corners than a round of the same grade, because the corners have no overlapping facet depth to scatter and dilute the color. We recommend staying at G or above for princess cuts in platinum or white gold. This is a practical budget consideration — dropping to H in a princess when you might comfortably do so in an oval represents a meaningful visual difference with this particular shape.
Understand the Two Pavilion Configurations
When evaluating princess cut diamonds, ask whether the stone has a two-row or three-row pavilion chevron configuration. A two-row pavilion produces a bold, chunky sparkle with a clearly defined four-rayed cross pattern visible face-up — high contrast, dramatic, and very distinctive. A three-row pavilion adds an additional row of chevron facets, producing finer, more numerous sparkle points and a less pronounced cross pattern — more similar to the scintillation of an oval or round. Neither variant is universally superior; they represent genuinely different visual aesthetics. View both before deciding, as the difference is immediately apparent when comparing two stones side by side.
Continue Exploring
Shapes Related to the Princess Cut
The princess with trimmed corners — same brilliant-cut faceting and comparable sparkle intensity, but with angled corners that eliminate the chipping vulnerability. If you love the princess's square brilliance but worry about the sharp corner durability, the radiant is the practical alternative.
The princess's warm, vintage-influenced counterpart — similar square proportions and brilliant-cut sparkle, but with rounded corners and curved sides that give a completely different aesthetic character. Ideal for buyers choosing between modern geometry and antique softness.
The princess emerged as a square alternative to the round, and the comparison remains the most common one buyers make. The round outperforms the princess in raw brilliance and fire; the princess delivers more geometric precision and a distinctive cross-pattern sparkle. Both are available with GIA cut grades for objective comparison.
Ready to Begin?
Find Your Perfect Princess Cut Diamond
Browse Michael Gabriels' curated princess cut selection — each independently certified by the GIA, reviewed for pavilion configuration and depth percentage, and assessed for face-up visual quality by our gemologists.
Common Questions
Diamond Shape FAQ
Shape refers to the outline of the diamond as viewed from above — round, oval, pear, and so on. Cut refers to the quality of the craftsmanship: how well the diamond's facets are angled, polished, and proportioned. A round diamond with an Excellent cut grade has been faceted to precise ideal proportions. A round diamond with a Poor cut grade has the same shape but far inferior light performance. Both shape and cut matter; shape determines the diamond's silhouette, cut determines how beautifully it performs within that silhouette.
Elongated shapes — particularly the marquise, oval, and pear — tend to have the largest face-up appearance relative to their carat weight, because their mass is spread across a longer surface area. The emerald cut also reads as large due to its open table. The round brilliant, by contrast, concentrates mass into a compact depth, so a 1.00ct round will measure approximately 6.5mm across, while a 1.00ct oval may measure 8.0 x 5.5mm — appearing visibly larger in many settings.
The round brilliant is the most scientifically optimised shape for light return — its 58 facets are positioned according to precise mathematical principles that maximise brilliance, fire, and scintillation simultaneously. However, "best" is subjective. A well-cut oval, cushion, or radiant can be extraordinarily beautiful, and many buyers prefer the distinctiveness of a fancy shape over the conventional round. The most important factor is ensuring the cut quality is excellent, regardless of the shape you choose.
Round brilliant diamonds have historically held their resale value better than fancy shapes, largely because they represent the largest segment of market demand. Fancy shapes — ovals, pears, cushions — can fluctuate more in resale value depending on current trends. That said, diamonds are generally not considered liquid investment assets, and the intrinsic beauty and personal meaning of your chosen shape should take precedence over resale considerations in most purchasing decisions.
For round brilliants, the GIA and AGS provide cut grades (Excellent/Ideal) that reflect overall proportion quality. For fancy shapes, no equivalent standardized cut grade currently exists — which means buyers must evaluate proportions themselves. At Michael Gabriels, each of our individual shape guides includes a detailed proportions section with the specific measurements you should look for, and our gemologists are available to review any stone you are considering.
