The Definitive Guide · Michael Gabriels
Every Diamond Shape, Expertly Explained
Your complete reference for understanding the world's most important diamond shapes — from the physics of light to the history behind each cut. Whether you are choosing your first diamond or your finest, this guide will take you there.
"Shape is not simply what a diamond looks like — it determines how it lives in light, and how it will be experienced every day."
Understanding Shape
Why Diamond Shape Matters
A diamond's shape is the single most visible characteristic it possesses — more immediately apparent than color, clarity, or carat weight. Before any other quality consideration enters your thinking, shape defines the stone's entire personality: how light moves through it, how it sits on a finger, how it reads from across a room.
At Michael Gabriels, we believe that choosing a diamond shape is not merely an aesthetic decision. It is an exercise in understanding light physics, craftsmanship, and the long tradition of human ingenuity applied to one of nature's most extraordinary materials. The round brilliant cut was born from mathematics. The emerald cut rewards patience and an appreciation for clarity. The marquise was reportedly commissioned by a French king to honour the smile of his marquise. Each shape carries a story.
This guide covers all ten of the most important diamond shapes in depth. For each one, you will find a full history and origin story, a detailed breakdown of its anatomy and facet structure, guidance on the ideal proportions that govern its beauty, and practical advice on how to evaluate and purchase that specific shape. Whether you are drawn to the unmatched brilliance of the round, the architectural step-cut of the emerald, or the romantic silhouette of the pear, you will leave better equipped to make a decision you will wear for a lifetime.
Use the shape cards below to navigate to any individual shape guide, or read the comparison table to orient yourself across all ten cuts at once.
10 Iconic Cuts
Choose Your Diamond Shape
Select any shape to read its complete guide — covering origin, anatomy, ideal proportions, light performance, and expert buying advice written by the gemologists at Michael Gabriels.
All Shapes at a Glance
Compare Every Diamond Shape
A side-by-side overview of each shape's most important characteristics — light performance, style, finger effect, and ideal setting styles.
| Shape | Brilliance | Style Profile | Finger Effect | Best For | Guide |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Round Brilliant | Timeless | Balanced | All settings, all styles | View → | |
| Oval | Romantic | Most elongating | Solitaires, halos | View → | |
| Radiant | Modern | Bold & striking | Three-stone, east-west | View → | |
| Cushion | Vintage | Soft & full | Halos, vintage-inspired | View → | |
| Pear | Distinctive | Strongly elongating | Solitaires, drops, pendants | View → | |
| Emerald | Editorial | Elongating | Step-set, east-west | View → | |
| Marquise | Regal | Maximum elongating | Statement solitaires | View → | |
| Princess Cut | Modern | Clean & square | Channel, pavé, bezel | View → | |
| Asscher Cut | Art Deco | Compact & bold | Art Deco settings | View → | |
| Heart Shape | Romantic | Symbolic | Pendants, solitaires | View → |
Decision Guide
How to Choose Your Diamond Shape
Consider Light Performance First
Brilliant cut shapes — round, oval, cushion, princess, radiant, pear, marquise, and heart — maximise sparkle by returning light upward through a pattern of triangular and kite-shaped facets. Step cut shapes — emerald and Asscher — create a different, more subdued effect: long flashes of light and dark that connoisseurs call the "hall of mirrors." Neither approach is superior; they are simply different expressions of a diamond's relationship with light.
Think About the Finger and the Setting
Elongated shapes — oval, pear, marquise, and emerald — visually lengthen the finger and tend to make diamonds look larger relative to their carat weight. Compact shapes — round, princess, Asscher, cushion — sit squarely and give a different sense of presence. Before deciding, consider the proportions of your hand and the ring style you have in mind. An oval in a simple solitaire reads very differently from the same stone in a pavé halo.
Match Shape to Your Clarity Budget
Step cut shapes like the emerald and Asscher have large, open facets that act like windows into the diamond — inclusions are far more visible than in brilliant-cut shapes. If you are drawn to a step cut, budget for VS2 or better clarity. Brilliant cuts, by contrast, scatter light in a way that makes inclusions harder to spot with the naked eye, allowing you to buy a lower clarity grade without visible compromise. This is an important practical consideration that can significantly affect your overall budget.
Round (Brilliant) Cut Diamonds
The round brilliant is our most popular diamond shape and the timeless choice for engagement rings thanks to its unmatched sparkle. At Michael Gabriels, we specially select lab grown round brilliants with 57 or 58 precisely arranged facets designed to maximize light return, fire, and scintillation. This advanced faceting reflects more light back to the eye than any other shape, making it perfect if you want a diamond that sparkles brilliantly from every angle.
Michael Gabriels Round Diamonds
From elegant solitaires to stunning halos and three‑stone designs, we offer a curated collection of engagement rings featuring lab grown round diamonds. Every stone we source is conflict‑free, ethically produced, and identical to mined diamonds in brilliance and durability. With Michael Gabriels, you get the luxurious sparkle of a classic round diamond with a cleaner conscience and better value.
What to Know When Shopping for Round Diamonds
The round brilliant's open, bright design highlights clarity more than elongated fancy shapes, so we recommend choosing stones that look clean and eye‑flawless. Rounds are calibrated for optimal face‑up size and light performance; while fancy cuts can sometimes appear larger, a well‑cut round's intense sparkle makes it look substantial and captivating on the finger. To amplify the visual impact further, consider our halo settings, which frame the center stone with smaller diamonds for a bigger, more radiant look.
The oval cut offers a glamorous twist on the classic round brilliant, with its elegant elongated oval shape that creates the illusion of greater size. At Michael Gabriels, our lab grown oval diamonds appear larger on the finger than round diamonds of similar carat weight due to their extended length and broader surface area. This makes them perfect for those seeking maximum sparkle with a slender, sophisticated look.
Michael Gabriels Oval Diamonds
From timeless solitaires to stunning halos and side-stone designs, we offer a carefully curated selection of lab grown oval diamond engagement rings. Each oval we source delivers the same fire and brilliance as top round brilliants while elongating the finger beautifully. With Michael Gabriels, you enjoy ethical, conflict-free luxury at exceptional value.
What to Know When Shopping for Oval Diamonds
Not all ovals perform equally—focus on cut quality to avoid the "bow-tie" effect, a dark central shadow that can dull sparkle. Our experts hand-select ovals with minimal or non-visible bow-ties for even light return across the stone. Pairing with a halo setting enhances both size perception and brilliance even further.
Cushion cut diamonds combine a square or rectangular outline with soft, rounded corners, creating a romantic “pillow‑like” shape that’s been loved for over 200 years. Modern cushion cuts typically feature around 58 facets, giving them a softer, more diffused sparkle than round brilliants, with big flashes of colored light (fire) and a vintage, old‑world feel. They sit stylistically between round and princess cuts, blending gentle curves with a bold, structured outline.
Michael Gabriels Cushion Diamonds
At Michael Gabriels, our lab grown cushion diamonds are hand‑selected for their balance of brilliance, fire, and that signature pillow‑like silhouette. We design them into everything from minimal solitaires to ornate halos and three‑stone settings, so you can choose a look that leans modern, vintage, or somewhere in between. Every cushion diamond we offer is ethically produced, conflict‑free, and identical to mined diamonds in beauty and durability—giving you luxe sparkle with a cleaner conscience.
What to Know When Shopping for Cushion Diamonds
Cushion cuts come in several flavor profiles—classic cushion brilliant, modified brilliant, and “crushed ice” styles—each with a different balance of sparkle, fire, and pattern. Because the shape is so flexible (square to elongated), cut quality and facet pattern vary more than with rounds, so it’s important to review videos or in‑person views rather than buying on specs alone. Cushions tend to have a slightly smaller face‑up size than round diamonds of the same carat (more weight sits in the depth), but the right ratio and setting can still create a strong presence on the finger.
Elongated cushion cuts can sometimes show a bow‑tie effect—a darker band across the center—similar to what you see in ovals and other elongated shapes. Our recommendation is to look for even light distribution across the stone and avoid cushions with a strong, distracting bow‑tie shadow. On the plus side, cushions generally hide color and inclusions better than many other shapes, which can give you more flexibility on color/clarity while still looking beautifully clean in everyday wear.
Pear cut diamonds (also called teardrop diamonds) blend the softness of a round brilliant with the tapered elegance of a marquise, creating a distinctive drop shape with one rounded end and one pointed tip. Their elongated silhouette offers excellent finger coverage and a slimming, lengthening effect, often making them look larger on the hand than round diamonds of a similar carat weight. When well‑proportioned, a pear cut delivers strong brilliance and sparkle while feeling more artistic and unexpected than classic shapes.
Michael Gabriels Pear Diamonds
At Michael Gabriels, we carefully select lab grown pear diamonds for symmetry, proportion, and light performance so you get that elegant teardrop outline with a bright, lively center. Each stone is ethically produced, conflict‑free, and visually indistinguishable from mined diamonds, giving you bold, romantic sparkle with a lighter footprint. Our pear diamonds shine in everything from minimalist solitaires to halos, side‑stone, and east‑west settings, so you can choose a look that’s refined, modern, or red‑carpet dramatic.
What to Know When Shopping for Pear Diamonds
Because pear cuts are elongated and asymmetrical, they’re more prone to the “bow‑tie” effect—a darker band across the center caused by how light moves through the facets. A subtle bow‑tie can add depth, but a strong, dark shadow will dull the diamond, so it’s important to review photos or video and aim for even brightness from tip to rounded end. You’ll also want to check for good symmetry (both sides matching in curve), a secure setting for the pointed tip, and a length‑to‑width ratio that suits your style—slimmer pears feel extra elongating, while slightly wider ones appear bolder and more vintage‑inspired.
Emerald cut diamonds are known for their clean, rectangular shape, cropped corners, and long step‑cut facets that create a sophisticated “hall of mirrors” effect rather than intense, glittery sparkle. Instead of tiny flashes of light like a round brilliant, emerald cuts show bold, linear reflections that feel architectural, chic, and quietly luxurious. They also tend to look larger on the finger than some other shapes of the same carat weight thanks to their generous face‑up size and elongated outline, which naturally lengthens and slims the finger.
Michael Gabriels Emerald Diamonds
At Michael Gabriels, we gravitate toward emerald cut lab grown diamonds for clients who love understated glamour and strong, modern lines. Our emeralds are chosen for symmetry, proportion, and clarity so that the hall‑of‑mirrors effect feels crisp and refined from every angle. Set into solitaires, three‑stone designs, or bands with delicate side stones, they offer a luxe, editorial look while still being ethically produced, conflict‑free, and visually identical to mined diamonds in durability and beauty.
What to Know When Shopping for Emerald Diamonds
Because emerald cuts have a large, open table and wide, step‑cut facets, they show inclusions and internal features more readily than brilliant cuts—so clarity matters more here than with many other shapes. Aim for stones that look clean to the naked eye and review photos or videos carefully, since paper specs alone won’t show issues like obvious inclusions, windowing, or uneven light. Length‑to‑width ratio also plays a big role in style: more classic emeralds sit around 1.30–1.50, while very elongated stones feel extra sleek and finger‑flattering, and squarer emeralds skew bolder and more vintage.
Radiant cut diamonds blend the clean, rectangular outline and cropped corners of an emerald cut with the brilliant-style faceting of a round, creating a shape that’s both modern and intensely sparkly. Typically featuring around 70 facets on both the crown and pavilion, a well-cut radiant is designed for high brilliance and fire, with a lively, “crushed light” effect that stands out from more traditional shapes. Radiants can be either square or rectangular, and the elongated versions offer strong finger coverage and a bold, contemporary look without feeling too classic or too vintage.
Michael Gabriels Radiant Diamonds
At Michael Gabriels, our lab grown radiant diamonds are chosen for their balance of crisp geometry and high-impact sparkle, perfect if you love clean lines but still want serious brilliance. Their faceting pattern helps to disguise minor inclusions, so you can often achieve a larger, more impressive look while staying within a smart budget compared with some other shapes at the same specs. Set into solitaires, halos, three-stone designs, or east–west orientations, our radiants deliver ethical, conflict-free luxury that feels fresh, editorial, and photo-ready from every angle.
What to Know When Shopping for Radiant Diamonds
Radiant cuts don’t receive a formal cut grade from most labs, so reviewing videos or in-person views is essential—facet pattern, depth, and table size all affect how bright or “glassy” the stone looks. Mixed-cut patterns and “crushed ice” styles can change the character of the sparkle, and elongated radiants can sometimes show bow-tie shadows or dark areas if the cut proportions aren’t balanced. Radiants tend to mask inclusions better than step cuts but can show body color more readily, so many experts recommend prioritizing a balanced color grade you’re comfortable with, then using our guidance to find a stone with even light return and minimal dead zones.
Princess cut diamonds offer a modern alternative to the classic round, with a clean square outline, sharp corners, and brilliant-style faceting that delivers intense sparkle. Technically known as a “square modified brilliant,” a princess cut usually has around 50–58 facets arranged to maximize light return, giving it a lively, glittering look that rivals round brilliants while feeling more geometric and contemporary. From the side, the stone resembles an inverted pyramid, which helps preserve more of the original rough and often makes princess cuts a stronger value per carat compared with rounds.
Michael Gabriels Princess Diamonds
At Michael Gabriels, we love princess cut lab grown diamonds for clients who want bold lines, strong sparkle, and a fresh, architectural aesthetic. Our stones are carefully selected for symmetry, faceting, and overall light performance so the square profile looks crisp and bright from corner to corner. Because princess cuts retain more of the rough crystal during cutting, you often get more carat weight for your budget—without sacrificing brilliance—making them an incredible choice for ethically produced, conflict‑free luxury that still feels unapologetically glamorous.
What to Know When Shopping for Princess Diamonds
Princess cuts have sharp, pointed corners that can be more vulnerable to chipping, so choosing a protective setting—like V‑prongs or secure corner prongs—is essential, especially for everyday rings. They’re typically cut deeper than round diamonds, which means they can appear slightly smaller face‑up at the same carat weight, but the square shape and strong sparkle still give a bold, eye‑catching presence on the finger. The faceting pattern does a good job of disguising minor inclusions, so you can often prioritize cut quality and overall look, then pair your princess cut with a solitaire, halo, or three‑stone setting to dial up the drama and perceived size even further.
Marquise cut diamonds (also called navette diamonds) are instantly recognizable for their elongated, boat‑like shape with pointed ends and a full, curved center. Typically cut with around 58 facets in a modified brilliant style, they deliver strong sparkle while creating the illusion of a much larger stone and a longer, slimmer finger. Thanks to their stretched outline and generous surface area, marquise diamonds can appear up to roughly 15–20% larger than other shapes of the same carat weight, making them a dramatic, statement choice for engagement rings.
Michael Gabriels Marquise Diamonds
At Michael Gabriels, our lab grown marquise diamonds are curated for graceful proportions, symmetry, and lively brilliance, so you get that elegant, elongated silhouette with a bright, even sparkle from tip to tip. Each stone is ethically produced, conflict‑free, and visually indistinguishable from mined diamonds, giving you a bold, editorial look that still aligns with modern values around sustainability and transparency. Whether you prefer a classic north–south solitaire, a halo for extra presence, or an east–west marquise for a fashion‑forward twist, our designs are built to flatter the hand and make the center stone the star.
What to Know When Shopping for Marquise Diamonds
Because marquise diamonds are elongated, they’re especially prone to the “bow‑tie” effect—a dark band across the center caused by how light moves through the facets—so you’ll want to look for stones with a soft, minimal bow‑tie rather than a strong, distracting shadow. Symmetry is also critical: both ends should align cleanly, the curves should match on each side, and the pointed tips should be well‑protected in the setting to avoid chipping over time. Length‑to‑width ratio is mostly a style choice—slimmer marquise stones are extra elongating and delicate, while slightly wider stones feel bolder and more vintage—but most people gravitate to the balanced range around 1.8–2.0 for an elegant, finger‑flattering look.
Asscher cut diamonds are square step‑cut stones with cropped corners and a distinctive “hall of mirrors” look, created by concentric rows of facets that draw your eye straight into the center. Originally designed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, this cut became an Art Deco icon thanks to its geometric lines, high crown, and deep pavilion, which together create bold flashes of light and a refined, vintage feel. Often called a “square emerald cut,” the Asscher’s octagonal outline and windmill facet pattern give it a sophisticated, architectural presence that feels quietly luxurious rather than overly flashy.
Michael Gabriels Asscher Diamonds
At Michael Gabriels, we love Asscher cut lab grown diamonds for clients drawn to clean geometry, Art Deco inspiration, and that hypnotic step‑cut glow. We carefully select stones for symmetry, strong windmill patterns, and crisp step facets, so you get a true hall‑of‑mirrors effect instead of a dull or “black box” center. Every Asscher we offer is ethically produced, conflict‑free, and visually indistinguishable from mined diamonds, giving you vintage‑inspired glamour with modern values around sustainability and transparency built in.
What to Know When Shopping for Asscher Diamonds
Because Asscher cuts are step‑cut with large, open facets and a wide table, they show inclusions and color more easily than brilliant cuts, so it pays to prioritize higher clarity and a color range you’re comfortable seeing in real life. They also carry more depth, which means they can face up slightly smaller than some other shapes at the same carat weight, but the strong patterning and square, almost octagonal outline still create a striking, jewel‑box presence on the hand. When you’re comparing stones, look for even, symmetrical steps, a pleasing windmill effect (not a dark, blocky center), and a setting that protects the cropped corners while showcasing the stone’s graphic, Art Deco‑inspired character.
Heart shaped diamonds are the ultimate symbol of romance, combining the brilliance of a round or pear cut with a clearly defined heart outline—rounded lobes at the top, a visible cleft, and a pointed tip. Technically a modified brilliant cut (often with around 57–59 facets), a well‑cut heart can be fiery and bright, facing up similarly in size to a round brilliant of the same carat weight while delivering a more playful, sentimental silhouette. Because the shape is more complex than most, symmetry is critical: both halves of the heart should mirror each other, with smooth curves, a distinct cleft, and a clean, centered point.
Michael Gabriels Heart Diamonds
At Michael Gabriels, our lab grown heart diamonds are curated for those who want their ring to tell a love story at a glance. We focus on hearts with balanced proportions, graceful lobes, and strong light performance so your diamond reads clearly as a heart from arm’s length and still sparkles beautifully up close. Every stone is ethically produced and conflict‑free, giving you the emotional impact of a heart shaped diamond with the modern reassurance of a more sustainable, transparent origin. Whether you choose a solitaire, halo, or a heart as the centerpiece of a pendant, our designs are crafted to feel special, romantic, and unmistakably personal.
What to Know When Shopping for Heart Diamonds
Heart shapes are one of the most challenging cuts to execute well, so it’s important to look beyond the certificate and evaluate the outline and symmetry directly—ideally via photos or video. You’ll want a clearly defined cleft, matching lobes, smooth “wings” (the sides), and a sharp point that’s well‑protected by prongs in the setting; uneven curves or a shallow cleft can make the shape look more like a distorted oval than a true heart. Like other fancy shapes, hearts can also show a bow‑tie shadow across the center if the cut proportions aren’t balanced, so aim for a stone with bright, even sparkle across the face and consider going a bit larger in carat (often 0.50 ct and up) so the heart outline reads clearly on the hand.
Where To Find the Most Exclusive Shaped Lab Grown Diamonds?
Michael Gabriels has the best online selection of lab grown diamonds in a huge variety of cuts and shapes so you can find the perfect gem for your engagement ring, earrings, necklace, or bracelet. We also offer custom jewelry design services where you can collaborate with our experienced design team and jewelry makers to create one-of-a-kind, bespoke pieces.
Explore our pre-designed engagement rings by our design tool and "start with setting" to shop for engagement rings, We guarantee that you will enjoy our free shipping and free returns, as we want to ensure your satisfaction and always put our customers first!
For more information on the cut, clarity, color or carat weight of diamonds or how lab grown diamonds are made, feel free to learn more on our Education section. Connect with us on our social media channels by following us on Visit Facebook, Visit Instagram, and Visit Pinterest for inspiration!
Common Questions
Diamond Shape FAQ
Shape refers to the outline of the diamond as viewed from above — round, oval, pear, and so on. Cut refers to the quality of the craftsmanship: how well the diamond's facets are angled, polished, and proportioned. A round diamond with an Excellent cut grade has been faceted to precise ideal proportions. A round diamond with a Poor cut grade has the same shape but far inferior light performance. Both shape and cut matter; shape determines the diamond's silhouette, cut determines how beautifully it performs within that silhouette.
Elongated shapes — particularly the marquise, oval, and pear — tend to have the largest face-up appearance relative to their carat weight, because their mass is spread across a longer surface area. The emerald cut also reads as large due to its open table. The round brilliant, by contrast, concentrates mass into a compact depth, so a 1.00ct round will measure approximately 6.5mm across, while a 1.00ct oval may measure 8.0 x 5.5mm — appearing visibly larger in many settings.
The round brilliant is the most scientifically optimized shape for light return — its 58 facets are positioned according to precise mathematical principles that maximize brilliance, fire, and scintillation simultaneously. However, "best" is subjective. A well-cut oval, cushion, or radiant can be extraordinarily beautiful, and many buyers prefer the distinctiveness of a fancy shape over the conventional round. The most important factor is ensuring the cut quality is excellent, regardless of the shape you choose.
Round brilliant diamonds have historically held their resale value better than fancy shapes, largely because they represent the largest segment of market demand. Fancy shapes — ovals, pears, cushions — can fluctuate more in resale value depending on current trends. That said, diamonds are generally not considered liquid investment assets, and the intrinsic beauty and personal meaning of your chosen shape should take precedence over resale considerations in most purchasing decisions.
For round brilliants, the GIA and AGS provide cut grades (Excellent/Ideal) that reflect overall proportion quality. For fancy shapes, no equivalent standardized cut grade currently exists — which means buyers must evaluate proportions themselves. At Michael Gabriels, each of our individual shape guides includes a detailed proportions section with the specific measurements you should look for, and our gemologists are available to review any stone you are considering.
